Konkanis from Maharashtra, Goa & Karnataka have their own genie in the bottle........a rare spice, indigenous to the coastal regions of these states which provides their curries a unique aroma & a fabulous flavour.
A good appetiser, digestive with wormicidal medicinal properties, it used to be a precious spice back in the 16th century when the Portuguese came to colonise Goa. Besides it is also hung as a traditional decoration during Ganesh Chathurti festival in Goa & its paste can be applied over the forehead during times of headache!
The tree bears fruits in Monsoon. In the local market, you will see vendors’ selling bunches of these dark greenish berries tied together and sold for a tiny sum. During this time, the fresh fruits are used as much as possible. Then the sun-dried version is made ready to stock up for the rest of the year. With gradual exposure to sun for around a week or two, the green berry dries & opens up to separate the black outer hard shell very fragrant when fully dried is retained for culinary use & the inner black seed is discarded. So a Konkani household will mostly forever have stock of this spice!
Still haven’t guessed......well the genie is.....
Triphal – In Goan Konkani
Teppal – In Manglorean Konkani
Kamte kai - In Kannada
Sichuan Pepper – In Chinese
& In Portuguese, its called “limao pimentose” (pungent lemon).
Goans use it whole heartedly as well as natives of Belgaum, Karwar, Vengurla, Kudal, North/South Canara & possibly, Konkanis who migrated to Kerala from Mangalore/Udupi. It is also widely used in the cuisine of Sichuan(China), as well as Thai, Tibetan, Bhutanese, Nepalese, Japanese and Toba Batak cuisines, among others.
Sometimes I wonder if Konkanis migrated from China or Thailand.......... there is so much in common to Thai & Chinese cuisines…triphal, bamboo shoots, jack fruits, coconut curries and coconut desserts!
Used in very small quantity, Tirphal goes well with only certain fish such as Bangda(Mackeral) and Tarle(Sardin) which has a strong distinct smell/taste & brown meat and with a few vegetarian dishes. Traditionally it is not use with fish like Surmayi(Iswan or Viswan or king fish) or Pomfret which have more white meat.
It has a fresh flavour somewhat in between of mint and lime that is not pungent but very subtle lemony overtones. This fantastic spice slightly crushed & added at last moment, cause a mild flavour is enough which along with kokum changes the entire taste of a fish curry. The gravy is so deliciously delicate with a subtle sweet-sour flavour from the coconut-kokum. So, if a recipe calls for triphal, beg, borrow or steal it, because there is no close substitute!
It leaves a notorious tingling numbness almost anaesthetic feeling on your tongue once you eat it. So it will take some time before you gradually grow to like it's lemon scented aroma, then be adventurous enough to use it in kadhi’s to curries , and finally acquire a taste for it.
It is dominated by the citrus-scented compounds limonene and citronellal & chemically contains hydroxyl-alpha sanshools which appear to act on several different kinds of nerve endings at once to induce sensitivity to touch and cold in nerves that are ordinarily nonsensitive.
Note: If bitten into by mistake, you will be really sorry, coz it leaves a very strong burning kind of sensation and flares up the tongue & it will remain numb for hours I guess!! So, though you will love the unique aroma and flavour that this spice imparts to the dish, be sure to remember to pick it out from your dish while eating and not bite into it. Also it is added at the last minute in the curry & never in the masala paste!
Sichuan Sardines (Tarle Curry)
Ingredients:
Sardines 8
Coconut grated 1
Red chillies 6-7
Garlic pods 3-4
Coriander seeds 10
Triphal 5-6
Turmeric 1tsp
Kokum pieces 2-3 or thick tamarind juice 1 tsp
Onion chopped 2 tbsp
Salt to taste
Method:
Clean the sardines. Grind coconut with red chillies, coriander seeds, garlic and turmeric to a very smooth paste. Heat oil in a saucepan, fry onions slightly, add the ground masala with sufficient water to form a gravy. Add sardines & boil till they are cooked (6-7mins). Add triphal, kokum pieces(or tamarind juice), salt and bring to a boil. Serve hot with rice.
Serves : 4
